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Daily bread
In her book English Bread & Yeast Cookery, Elizabeth David, writing in 1977, makes a point of value to us in these days when we are so distanced from our food supply: that for every ounce of bread we eat (a thin slice), an ounce of grain has been grown, harvested, transported (often long distances) to mills, cleaned, dried, conditioned, ground into flour, treated, stored and finally delivered to bakeries and bread factories.
Wanting to get closer to my bread, I attended an artisan bread-making class last weekend, and here’s what I did at school that day….
Started off with lessons on yeast. Active dry yeast is the yeast of choice since it’s reliable and durable (can be stored for years in a freezer, though officially has a 3 month shelf life)
But fresh yeast is preferred by purists (assuming they are making bread in volume, since a cake only keeps for a month) – can be hard to find though.
Instant yeast comes in big granules; what the purists don’t like about it is that coating on the granules means you’ll get about 25-30% dead yeast together with the live cells, meaning you need to use about twice as much as active yeast, and soak in water, for reliable results.
Moving on from yeasts, we were introduced to sourdough and rye starters
Rye is particularly valued, because of its high amylase content, stable at high (baking) temperatures. Amylase is an enzyme – also present in seeds (contributing to germination) and saliva – which converts starch into sugar; starch is what hardens during baking to create firm, airy loaves. Since amylase breaks starch down during baking, rye contributes a moist, dense texture in bread. We didn’t use the rye starter in this class, but I hope to take the next installment which is all about fermentation techniques.
Then there was Poolish – which originated in French kitchens (the name a nod to the Polish bakers who probably introduced it). Simple to make and only needing a night to ferment, it is gooey and puffy, and went into our baguettes:
and Biga, an Italian starter, which is thicker and sturdier than Poolish, and used later that day to make ciabatta.
We watched our instructor – Martin Barnett – make a Challah dough
while he explained why it is better to weigh ingredients than go by volume (a cup of plain flour is not the same as a cup of whole wheat, etc.) and paused at intervals to demonstrate different stages of gluten development
stopping only when it had advanced to the stage when you can make a window to read through. Then he covered it and left it to carry on with its first rising (primary fermentation).
Lessons learned, we proceeded to make buttermilk seed bread
and some dough for baguettes.
Some of us made ciabatta, and others (like us) Tuscan loaves; then we readied our ingredients for wholemeal brioche and went for lunch (pizzas we assembled ourselves on fresh pizza dough). After lunch we put our bread into loaves, and then made the brioche dough, rolled it flat, buttered it and sprinkled it with sugar, cinnamon and raisins; rolled it up
and cut it into buns
which were baked and then brushed with apricot glaze
and some lemony icing.
We rolled our baguettes and popped them into forms to rise
and then started reaping the bounty. Ciabatta
baguettes
and our seed and Tuscan olive breads. Not a bad haul for 8 hours’ work.
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Nutrition Month; Season with lead, phthalates and a pinch of salmonella…
March is Nutrition Month in Canada, and the theme is “Celebrate Food, from Field to Table”. The Vancouver Island Health Authority’s suggestions for ways to celebrate include:
- Plant a garden in your backyard, a container garden on your balcony, or herbs on your windowsill.
- Get children involved in preparing food and eat family meals often. When kids take part in meals, they are more likely to make healthier choices.
- Enjoy fresh food in season. Shop at local farmers markets and farm gates. Freeze or preserve local fruits and vegetables to eat a greater variety throughout the year.
Tips for supporting your community to grow a local food system:
- Start, support or get involved with a local community garden project to grow food close to where you live.
- Join a community kitchen group to cook and enjoy meals with friends.
- Work with your local school board to create ways to showcase local foods either in the classroom, school cafeteria or schoolyard.
- Encourage your grocery store to carry more local foods.
Meanwhile. as people have been discovering with the recall of North American food products containing Hydrolyzed Vegetable Proteins, a little can mean a lot to food safety. Time magazine’s recent article about the lead content of Indian spices is another argument for buying or using local – including the seasonings in your foods. Many spices and herbs are sold in organic versions which, of course, cost more – but what we’re learning nowadays about the dangers of even tiny amounts of toxins in our foods show why it can sometimes be critical to pay more for less.
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Food Safety and the Browning of the Green Revolution
The Canadian Food Inspection Agency has a Food Safety website where you can see the latest hazards, recalls and alerts. It is a nightmarish list of undeclared milk and wheat and egg, product tampering, prosecution bulletins, and instances of Salmonella and Listeria Monocytogenes. All of which have to do with commercial food processing products and facilities. If nothing else, it affirms the value of staying away from processed foods and cooking with fresh, organic ingredients wherever possible.
And speaking of organics, the Organic Center, out of Boulder, Colorado, has posted The Browning of the Green Revolution, (which summarizes the full paper – available here – published in the open access Journal of Environmental Quality) that found adding artificial nitrogen to soil actually depletes nitrogen, and has a diminishing effect on soil fertility. Just as Dirt! The Movie and a thousand other sources will tell you, the authors find that:
Half a century after the onset of input-intensive agriculture, many of the world’s most productive soils have been degraded and cereal production is increasingly exceeded by grain demand for a burgeoning human population.
Plug this into what we know about world food shortages and you get a rather obvious conclusion:
This dilemma warns of the critical need to reevaluate nitrogen fertilizer management and usage, and may ultimately require a transition toward agricultural diversification utilizing legume rotations, instead of further intensifying inputs under the auspices of another Green Revolution. An inexorable conclusion can be drawn: the prevailing system of agriculture does not provide the means to intensify food and fiber production without degrading the soil resource.
I wonder who’s listening… Will our government be able to untangle itself from the knots of influence it’s bound itself to with agri-business multinationals and actually plan for an enduring agricultural industry that produces food for generations to come, or will we stick with short-sighted methods that feed us and starve the future? The problem is that the future appears to be upon us.
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In her latest collection, Rhona McAdam navigates the dark places of human movement through the earth and the exquisite intricacies lingering in backyard gardens and farmlands populated by insects and pollinators, all the while returning to the body, to the tune of staccato beats and the newly discovered symmetries within the human heart.
“…A beautiful, filling collection, Larder is a set of poems to read at the change of the seasons, to appreciate alongside a good meal, and to remind yourself of the beauty in everything, even the things you may not appreciate before opening McAdam’s collection….”
Rhona McAdam is a writer, poet, editor, and Registered Holistic Nutritionist with a Master’s in Food Culture from Italy and a deep-rooted passion for ecology and urban agriculture. Her work spans corporate and technical writing to poetry and creative nonfiction, often exploring the vital links between what we eat and how we live. Based in Victoria, BC, and available via Zoom, Rhona is always open to new writing commissions, readings, or workshops on nutrition and the culinary arts.






















