I was worried when the website for Ristorante Mosaiko dropped off the virtual map, but the place itself is still three dimensional, and chef Davide di Dio assured me that the website was only being redesigned, and would return one day under a new url. But not yet. There was some lovely raku on the walls and the Oltretorrente locals trickled in steadily until the place was humming a happy Parma air.

From my corner table I was reassured by another terrific meal that chef Davide has not worked himself into the ground, nor lost his imagination. The amuse-bouche – a tiny meat pie on a beetroot and balsamico base – was exquisite.

The Insalata d’astice, asparagi e arancia siciliana (lobster, asparagus and Sicilian blood oranges) was out of this world; if I’m not mistaken there were flecks of home-pickled ginger which made a gorgeous sensory contrast to the rest. And it was simply beautiful to look at.

How could I resist the Ravioli al baccala’ mantecato (salt cod ravioli), with shrimp, rucola and black olives? They were quite rich but I’d come to eat and eat I did. I also liked the bowl; at Mosaiko every dish has had its housing carefully planned.

And then Branzino in crosta di pane (sea bass) with zucchini – which was absolutely delicious – and black olive and pesto.

After my past experiments trying to make bonet myself, I thought I’d better try the real thing, which is reliably excellent here. And so it was again.

And this one’s for Howard (these guys live in a cabinet at Croce di Malta)