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Victoria’s farmers markets
If you consulted the BC Association of Farmers Markets Marketfinder, you might be forgiven for thinking there are only two farmers markets in Victoria. We visited a couple of off-the-list markets last Saturday, and there are many more besides.It’s another one of those situations of fragmentation I guess; we are over-supplied with information and have no way to concentrate people’s attention on one source. What is the authoritative source of current information about farmers markets? We just don’t have one place to look anymore. In little old Victoria we have two print phone books now, as well as multiple online directories, and where directories are concerned, authority seems to change as swiftly as technology itself . Choosing a directory so people can find your business is a nightmare. Farmers market administrators would have to work out which information sources to subscribe to and then
keep updated; prospective customers come from all kinds of backgrounds and are seeking the markets for all kinds of reasons, so will be looking in all different directions. Phew. Information overload already. Little wonder many simply rely on their own websites. No: make that blogs… No: Facebook… No: Twitter… No: iPad apps… No: Groupon. No: ..?!Anyway. The listings include Moss Street, of course, and Oaklands – which I’ve never heard of but seems to be a Thursday community market. But there are in fact a number of others absent from its listings, who presumably simply don’t belong to the organization. The Victoria Downtown Public Market struggled on through the winter – its meat (Terra Nossa) and produce stands were always thronged but attendance looked poor to me in the cold months; I haven’t been downtown much so haven’t seen how it is this summer, or whether the Island Chefs Collaborative market is running competition for it in Bastion Square.
The James Bay Farmers Market is a small neighbourhood market, nestled behind the
legislature building and the Tally-Ho stop, so perfectly positioned for tourist as well as neighbourhood trade.It’s time for fresh produce at last at last. And the
re are lots of tomatoes to be had, despite the cool start to the summer. Those with greenhouse space
are a month or two ahead of me. Sun Trio Farm had a good variety of plum sized tomatoes of many colours.Given this long cool year we’ve had, it’s early for it, though even so, later in the day I encountered at least one farmer who was selling fresh garlic, but Golden Maples Fa
rm had a great selection from last year. And nicely
displayed too. They were labelled Purple Stripe and Metechi, but from what I read, Metechi is a kind of Purple Stripe; there are hundreds of varieties of garlic and all I can safely say about what’s in my garden is that I’m growing both hard and soft neck varieties and they haven’t died yet, so I’m hopeful that a harvest is still in my future. Anyway… these ones looked good.The bread selle
r at James Bay has beautiful looking loaves. Not cheap – many clocking in around $8 or $10 a loaf, but brisk sellers: he was down to a couple of loaves when we passed by later that day.
Another Saturday market not on the BCAFM list was the North Saanich Farmers Market, run by the North Saanich Food for the Future Society (“dedicated to supporting farms and farmers, and further developing the agricultural capacity of the district.”). It’s another small neighbourly market with a regular clientele and – like James Bay – musical accompaniment. It seems to be well appreciated by the marketgoers too: things really do run out near the end of its three hour day.There are more missing from the listings. From a food-shopper’s point of view, the risk that farmers markets run as they mature is in evolving into crafts markets, but that seems to happen to many of them. The farmers have to weigh time away from the fields against sales, and a great many of them (thanks in large part to the long-running Island Farm Fresh directory) have farmgate or direct sales as well as connections to retailers and restaurants. Moss Street has avoided this by keeping the crafts and food vendors physically separate, and the vendors are attuned to consumer trends: organic and gluten-free foods are the mainstay. It’s been a while since I went to the Saanich Fairgrounds, to the market that for a while seemed to be the only show in town (now known as the Peninsula Country Market), but it looks from the vendor list to have lagged a bit on farmer presence; and the last time I was at the Thursday evening Sidney Summer Market it was thoroughly mobbed, but had almost no produce stands.
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Food – sight and sound
B is for Bananas (if you didn’t know why it was important to buy these organic and Fairtrade, here’s your briefing)
B is also for Bees
Queen of the Sun trailer from Youtube.
And R is for radio, specifically NPR (I’m close enough to the border to be able to listen in) where you can hear
Yotam Ottolenghi talking vegetables – promo for his excellent cookbook Plenty (recipes born in YO’s wonderful Guardian column, The New Vegetarian); Barry Estabrook speaking in depth to NPR’s Fresh Air about his new book Tomatoland, which blows the lid off many aspects of the Florida tomato industry – labour standards, soil depletion, pesticide use – and explains why big ag’s focus on high yield tomatoes does not put good tasting food on your plate (which is exactly why Slow Food exists); and then a brief look at sustainable fish (tilapia) production: urban fish agriculture (but not the kind that involves feeding them corn and, like other farmed protein sources, causes more of the same old problems to those who eat them)
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Canada Day on the Gorge
The very best thing about living along the Gorge Waterway is the annual closure of Gorge Road for an all-day Canada Day picni
c. The peace of morning – the road closes first thing for set-up – is charmingly broken by a small parade (a swarm of decorated bikes, one fire engine, one vintage police car, some First Nations drummers, and one small marching band), and then peaceable throngs of Canadians wearing red and white (somehow I still haven’t managed to get myself a giant Canada Day hat
..)For some reason this year a clutch of food vendors ended up right on my doorstep: Indian food; Mexican tamales; mini-donuts (I think that still counts as food?); Mr Tubesteak and his (not as good as the ones at Courtenay
folk fest but still hugely popular) hot dogs; and Pizzeria Prima Strada, with its mobile wood-fired pizza oven and interesting selections, which was rightly mobbed all day. There were others as well: the always popular International Women’s Catering Co-op was doing a booming trade in portable foods from all over; and the lineup for pancake breakfast was said to be 45 minutes by 10am.The Gorge Tillicum Urban Farmers were there, spreading the gospel of back (and front) yard food gardens, urban chickens and the joy of neighbours who grow. We had a great big table full of plant starts and vegetable seeds, donated by members,
and offered to
passers-by for the price of a small donation and a helping of advice on what was what and how to grow it. Although a lot of what we had on hand might have been called weeds by some, they also had ornamental, medicinal or edible properties, like feverfew (good for migraines and many other ailments), day lilies (all parts edible) and borage (young leaves and flowers are said to taste like cucumber).Our neighbour again this year was GTUFer and bee expert Gord Hutchings, who as always
attracted a continuous stream of people interested in knowing more about wild pollinators in general and blue orchard mason bees in particular.The day which had started off grey and windy became warm and sunny, ideal for wandering musicians, Morris dancers, dog-walkers, picnickers, stall-
holders and all those just having a gentle day off.The municipality of Saanich was there talking up sustainability issues; I particularly liked this watershed model which attracted a lot of children who got to practice raining on a model
landscape of our area to see the contaminating effects of road, lawn and garden runoff.
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In her latest collection, Rhona McAdam navigates the dark places of human movement through the earth and the exquisite intricacies lingering in backyard gardens and farmlands populated by insects and pollinators, all the while returning to the body, to the tune of staccato beats and the newly discovered symmetries within the human heart.
“…A beautiful, filling collection, Larder is a set of poems to read at the change of the seasons, to appreciate alongside a good meal, and to remind yourself of the beauty in everything, even the things you may not appreciate before opening McAdam’s collection….”
Rhona McAdam is a writer, poet, editor, and Registered Holistic Nutritionist with a Master’s in Food Culture from Italy and a deep-rooted passion for ecology and urban agriculture. Her work spans corporate and technical writing to poetry and creative nonfiction, often exploring the vital links between what we eat and how we live. Based in Victoria, BC, and available via Zoom, Rhona is always open to new writing commissions, readings, or workshops on nutrition and the culinary arts.

